Despite unbearable humidity and a faulty air conditioning system at Spring Studios – the central hub of New York Fashion Week – spectators are clinging to their knits and it would be hard to find one who doesn’t already own a Henry Zankov .
The 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist may have drawn attention to the heart of work-from-home culture, but lucky for him, the sweater is one of the few trends of the times that’s actually stuck, so maybe her brand could do it too. It takes creative ingenuity to make a seasonal category work year-round and that’s exactly the muscle he flexed for spring.
Zankov titled the collection “Lighten Up” to remember. “The way I go about life, I take things very seriously,” he explained in the Chelsea gallery where his presentation took place.
Channeling the motto toward lighter weights, last fall’s open weave returned, but more delicate in gingham lace topped with iridescent sequins. The extra-fine cotton was worked on the bias for flexibility, while one of Zankov’s tubular dresses had panels of recycled cellophane, allowing skin to breathe between the vertical strips of toile.
Zankov said he wanted to “seduce” with his color palette, taking inspiration from semi-precious stones like rhodolite, chrysocolla and sunstone, which were carried over into his first accessory: tiny leather clutches. alpaca perfect for storing healing crystals to add positive vibes.
On the menswear front, Zankov used dropped needle techniques for disheveled quality vests and cardigans to contrast with some of his more preppier pieces. Zankov continues to think outside his knitting bubble. He loves classic shirts and reworks them to create a pair of cool mixed banker stripe board shorts with tied sleeve ties around the waist.
Zankov also likes connections with other artists and here there were two: digital prints of fruit by London-based illustrator Helen Bullock and pulpit chairs by Brooklyn-based sculptor Thomas Barger to set the scene.